*****
Palio of Siena in 2006. Courtesy of Palio di Siena
When:
Jul 2009 (various dates)
Where:
Piazza del Campo
Cost:
Free
Opening Hours:
Activity in the Piazza del Campo begins mid-morning; the race is in the afternoon
For the Sienesi, the Palio horse-race around the Piazza del Campo is a matter of life and death. Daring, bravado, lunacy, bribery, poisoning and death-threats have all played their parts in the event since its inauguration in 1310.
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The race consists of bareback riders making three circuits of the main square and is over in 90 seconds, but it is preceded by five hours of flag-throwing acrobatics. For the locals, it is the culmination of an entire year's plotting and scheming, and for visitors it is a spectacular show.
The Palio is the banner, decorated with an image of the Virgin Mary, which is presented to the winner of the race. Competitors come from each of the 17 contrade (districts) of the city. To come first crowns you in glory, to come even second is worse than death. For the runner-up, ignominy and shame produce phenomenal rivalries with the winning contrada which can rumble along for years, creating tensions only assuaged when the vanquished win again (or more satisfying, if their rivals lose!).
In the evening, wandering the various contradas is fascinating. Those who have lost watch the race over and over in their community centres, drowning their sorrows in grappa. On the other hand, the winning contrada's entire population flock to their local church, where the palio is given pride of place behind the altar. The scenes of jubilation are incredible - firecrackers, brass bands, choirs and dancing grannies abound. Sounds crazy? It is. Don't miss it.
Unless you're a local celebrity or a millionaire, don't bank on getting a bird's eye view of the race - balconies and seats are booked out months in advance. Your best bet is to head for the Campo, stake out a section by the railings and stand your ground. Things can get pretty hot and bothered during the hours leading up to the race, so bring your own refreshments and be patient - it will be worth it in the end.
The Palio is the banner, decorated with an image of the Virgin Mary, which is presented to the winner of the race. Competitors come from each of the 17 contrade (districts) of the city. To come first crowns you in glory, to come even second is worse than death. For the runner-up, ignominy and shame produce phenomenal rivalries with the winning contrada which can rumble along for years, creating tensions only assuaged when the vanquished win again (or more satisfying, if their rivals lose!).
In the evening, wandering the various contradas is fascinating. Those who have lost watch the race over and over in their community centres, drowning their sorrows in grappa. On the other hand, the winning contrada's entire population flock to their local church, where the palio is given pride of place behind the altar. The scenes of jubilation are incredible - firecrackers, brass bands, choirs and dancing grannies abound. Sounds crazy? It is. Don't miss it.
Unless you're a local celebrity or a millionaire, don't bank on getting a bird's eye view of the race - balconies and seats are booked out months in advance. Your best bet is to head for the Campo, stake out a section by the railings and stand your ground. Things can get pretty hot and bothered during the hours leading up to the race, so bring your own refreshments and be patient - it will be worth it in the end.
Related Information
Website:
Event details can change.
Please check with the organisers that the event is happening before making travel arrangements.
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