India - Get Around

Relax on the sleeper train for huge cross-country journeys, or take autorickshaws for chugging around the city.

Huge India has the mighty Himalayas in the north, with cool Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh, while the lush tribal area of north-east loops around Bangladesh with the holy Ganges hugging the coast with Nepal. To the west are the scorched deserts of Rajasthan and down the coast Goa's beaches. The humid south has beaches in Kerala and the cool Nandi Hills near Bangalore, while the dry plains of Orissa dominate the east.

The lifeblood of India and largest employer, the inter-city national train network is staggering in its volume and efficiency. The speedy Shatabdi express trains travel between major cities, and Rajdhani operates a daily overnight between Delhi and Mumbai. Other services are slower, but always a pleasant way of travelling. Sleepers should be booked in advance, with different classes available (3-tier, 2-tier, 1st-class cabin etc). Get onto the Tourist Quota, when available, to avoid waiting lists. Food is always available, from train hawkers or stations.

Long-distance buses are often rickety and cramped, with bad roads and worse driving, so this is a last resort especially in areas with no train. Take the best company on offer with air-conditioning if possible. Try to avoid the video buses which boom out Hindi films all night and choose a seat near the front of the bus.

For getting around cities and travelling short distances between towns and cities, taxis are easily found and reasonable. If there is no meter, negotiate a price before (ask a local what's a fair price). Long distance journeys should be booked in advance and the fair fixed – avoid doing this with cabbies outside airports and stations.

The little yellow-and-black motorised three-wheeler is found spluttering through every town and city and is the most popular and practical way of getting around town. If there isn't a meter – or the driver refuses to use one – negotiate the price first.

Lone female travellers should be seated next to another woman on buses. Do what the locals do and secure your luggage with padlock and chain on the train. Try to take the top sleeper on the train, which won't get folded down during the day.

Indian Railways website

Visit the spot of the Bodhi tree where the original Buddha received enlightenment in Bodghaya and pay your respects at superb Moghul Humyun's Tomb in Delhi.