Dublin is split into two by the River Liffey; explore central and south-side sites on foot or with the help of the Luas tram, or hop on a DART train to see the coast.
South of the Liffey are Temple Bar, Trinity College and St Stephen's Green, plus pedestrianised Grafton Street and Dublin Castle. Hop north over O'Connell Bridge, or charming Ha'Penny Bridge, for the huge GPO and shopping on wide O'Connell Street. West are mammoth Phoenix Park and Kilmainham on the city's border, and south are the upmarket residential and dining spots of Portobello and Ballsbridge. East is Dublin Bay's coast.
Dublin's modernised network of buses criss-crosses the city centre, with most routes passing close to Trinity College. Pay the driver on entry and if in doubt of your whereabouts, chatty passengers will help you out. There are a variety of airport buses available, and a limited number of night buses. Timetables are usually posted at the bus stops. An lar is Gaelic for “city centre”.
Walking is the best way to explore the relatively compact city, so wear comfortable (and waterproof!) shoes. The tourist office on Suffolk Street provides a decent street map, and places of interest are well sign-posted.
The DART rail line (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) serves the city's suburbs. It is invaluable for reaching the coast, from Greystones in the south to Howth in the north, hugging the Dublin Bay coastline. The main central hub is Connolly Station. Dublin's tram network, Luas, has two lines in and out of the city centre. Its Green Line goes from St Stephen's Green to the south suburbs, ending at Sandyford, while the Red Line heads west from Connolly Station.
It's usually easy to find a taxi, either by flagging one down in the city centre or booking one in outer areas. They all run on meters so beware of sitting in heavy rush hour traffic with the euros being clocked up.
If your shoe leather needs a rest, take a relaxing sightseeing trip down the Liffey, with an insight into historical highlights. Try the 45-minute-long cruises that leave the Boardwalk on the north of the river several times a day.
The Dublin Pass City Rambler Ticket offers unlimited bus travel over one, three or five consecutive days. It includes the airport bus, so buy one at the airport. Pre-paid DART tickets are cheaper than cash fares. Avoid rush hour, when streets are clogged with cars, and leave plenty of time to reach the airport, especially in the early evening and on Sundays after a match (football, hurling, anything!)
Take a look at the crypt in 800-year-old Christ Church Cathedral; trot over the Liffey via the 19th-century Ha'Penny Bridge (once a toll bridge); feast on today's creations at the Irish Museum of Modern Art.
Dublin Area Rapid Transit DART website
Luas Dublin Light Rail Transit website
The O2
22 - 23 Nov 2009
Royal Dublin Society (RDS)
2 - 6 Dec 2009 (annual)
The O2
8 Dec 2009


