You haven't had a real paella until you've tried it in Valencia.
Have lunch on the beach, or tapas and cava in the historic centre.
Atmospheric: El centro
The alleyways of the old town almost groan under the weight of the sheer number of
places to eat, and you'll trip over holes in the wall selling authentic
tapas around the Barrio del Carmen. Think small, but special – try
Serrano ham in one tapas bar, seafood croquettes in another.
International: Conde Altea / Gran Via
A mix of international restaurants congregate to the south of the city centre. Around
the streets of Calle Conde Altea and Gran Via, there's
everything from swanky Mediterranean bistros to steakhouses and Chinese food.
If you're seeking the Holy Grail of Valencian paella, your search
should take in the restaurants lining Malvarrosa. It might not be the
cheapest, but it will be among the best, and those long lunches along the Paseo
Marítimo just slip into lazy evenings by the sea.
Like everywhere in Spain, Valencians eat late, so you can stretch out and get the
best seats turning up at 8pm, or mix with a fashionable crowd after 10pm. Order a
huge paella 24 hours in advance and collect it the next day to take out on a picnic.
In most restaurants, service is included in the bill.