The people of Puebla, poblanos, theatrically re-enact France's defeat at the Battle of Puebla in 1862 every year on the 5 May. Rifles, cannon discharges, smoke and shouting abound. At nightfall, the Mexican and French generals battle it out alone.
In the spring of 1862, President Benito Juárez sent a force of 2000 woefully under-equipped Mexicans, led by General Ignácio Zaragoza, to fight a professional French army of 6000 troops. The French had landed at Veracruz with the aim of recouping the debt of US$80m owed by the newly elected Mexican government. On 5 May, the Mexicans defeated the French forces in Puebla.
Though the battle was only a temporary setback for Napoleon, it is commemorated by Mexicans as the first step in ridding themselves of the French Imperialists - finally achieved in 1867.
Celebrations in Puebla involve men dressed up as French and Mexican soldiers and brandishing swords. Women in skirts and flowery hats march in remembrance of their brave female ancestors who travelled with the Mexican army to cook and care for the soldiers. Wine bottles sticking out of the 'French' soldiers' knapsacks are supposed to symbolise their nationality...
Around mid-afternoon the 'battle' begins in the plaza. The Mexican general wins, to the approval of the assembled crowd, who then peel off to dance, drink and listen to stirring political speeches.
Games, food stalls and strolling mariachi bands add to the day's excitement, culminating in a big fireworks display. Bullfighting also takes place throughout the day, so if you find this activity distasteful then avoid this particular part of the festival.
