Mani Rimdu

Illuminated by the eerie silver light of the full moon, in the upper reaches of the rooftop of the world, Buddhist monks enact an ancient story. Their monastery at Thyangbache, where Mani Rimdu is performed, is a day's hike from any other human habitation bar the occasional wattle-and-daub hut where trekkers may rest along the way.

In the icy chill of the day's dusk, the masked dancers first make their appearance on the bare courtyard of the monastery before performing, for hours on end, in an elaborate ritualistic retelling of the story of Buddhism's triumph over Bon, Tibet's ancient animist religion. The performing Lamas (monks) wear beautifully crafted papier maché masks and intricately woven brocade costumes. Across three nights, there are various phases to the festival as first the monks act out elaborate prayer rituals before embarking on the story itself. On the final day, the throngs of Sherpas who have gathered for the ceremonies join with the local villagers and party the night away in an all night Sherpa dance. Sherpas are amongst the most devout Buddhists in Nepal, mountain people originally descended from Tibetans, who made the long and arduous trip from their country across the Himalayas. They are greatly respected by other Nepalis.

Another thrill of a visit to the Thyangbache monastery is that you get what is universally acknowledged as one of the most stunning views in the world. You are literally surrounded by the highest mountains, including Kwangde, Tawachee, Nuptse and Lhotse, and, peeking above them all, Everest.

Thyangbache is on the fourth day of the fifteen day trek from Lukla, where there is an airport, to the Everest Base Camp. If you want to go, it is best you get your hands on a detailed trekking guidebook for the exact logistics of how to get there. The hardy will doubtless wish to make the trip onwards to the foot of Everest but those with weaker constitutions will obviously get home quicker if they turn back towards Luka. If you do decide to continue you'll get the added bonus of a glimpse of a hand and scalp reputedly belonging to a yeti (abominable snowman) housed in a gompa at the foot of Everest. However, at Khumjung Gompa on the way up to Thyangbache there is supposedly a yeti skull, so even the lazy won't miss out. Although Sir Edmund Hilary did do his best to discredit it by taking it to a lab in America which, with a definite lack of imaginary flair, managed to identify it as belonging to an antelope.

Mani Rimdu is becoming increasingly popular amongst westerners - expect many in the audience and no lack of company on the trip onwards, which ever way you go. There are also Mani Rimdu enactments at the gompas of Thami and Chiwang, if you miss this one. Check out Whatsonwhen's separate entries on these two. But if it's a view you're after and a full-on immersion in one of the most ancient, mysterious, magical, moving and noble cultures in the world then get your walking boots on and make it to Thyanboche.

Mani Rimdu at Thyanboche Gompa always occurs over the November/December full moon.