Hungary Guide
A dynamic blend of old and new radiates from Budapest to the far-flung corners of this seen-it-all land. Hungary is no longer the country of handlebar-moustached, whip-cracking horsemen, but a place of handsome medieval cities, fashionable lakeside beaches and hearty peasant cuisine.
After lapping up a mix of modernity and Habsburg extravagance in Budapest, binge on baroque in Eger. If Veszprém, with its Castle Hill, is Buda in miniature, then southern Szeged is a pocket-sized Pest. Medieval Sopron clings to its Magyar roots, while Pécs, with its converted mosque, oozes Turkish influence and a Mediterranean feel. UNESCO World Heritage village Hollókő is a time capsule of centuries-old atmosphere.
Glide up the broad Duna river between the steep slopes of the Danube Bend and keep up with the in-crowd sailing on the large expanse of Lake Balaton. On its northern shores at Badacsony, cellar-hop under the black basalt hill and taste its volcanic influence in the expressive whites. There are over 20 wine regions dotted around the Hungarian countryside. Gallop on horseback like a Huszár across the Great Plain, take in the fine air of the Mátra mountains and discover some of Hungary's wildlife.
Pick up salami from Szeged's Pick, or Herz in Budapest. For porcelain stop off at Herend or Zsolnay. Pálinka is Hungary's EU-protected name for its fruit brandies, providing they are distilled from 100% fruit. They can be sampled on site at Agárdi distillery at Lake Velence or at the Zwack distillery in Budapest. At the latter, try to crack the secret formula behind Unicum, the omnipresent bitter liqueur.
Ignore the calories and enjoy the paprika-infused meaty Magyar mix. Budapest is home to the most stylish eateries, but try no-nonsense homemade food in the provinces too, especially fish soup made from carp, and tender pikeperch. Hungarian wines were once legendary, especially the sweet Tokaji Aszú, and may well be again one day soon, now that winemakers are free of the obligation to meet communist quotas and can be creative once more.
With skilled dentists and doctors in abundance and their services very reasonably priced, dental and health tourism, including plastic surgery, are thriving. Budapest has become a major venue for (mainly British) stags and hens to run free, while shrewd property investors led by the Irish snap up apartments, sometimes before they are even built.
