Syria Guide

From the elegant courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus to the desert city ruins of Palmyra, Syria is filled with castles, citadels and labrynthine souqs, a step inside Biblical history. Enjoy local hospitality, brush up on your Arabic and explore one of the Middle East's best-kept secrets.

Once you've explored Damascus's golden-domed Umayyad Mosque and the Old City's winding alleys, head north for the maze of Aleppo's souq and citadel. Homs has fresco-filled churches and nearby Hama's old town is scattered with centuries-old water wheels. Laid-back Latakia on the Mediterranean coast has lively pavement cafés, while Deir el-Zur on the Euphrates' banks is the east's most prominent city.

Lounge on the golden Mediterranean coast, or escape the heat in the Anti Lebanon mountain range. Catch the best sunset view over Damascus from Mount Kassioun, and explore the hilltop-clinging village and caves in Ma'alula. The slopes of Mount Hermon are dotted with villages and the fruit-laden Al-A'waj River, while the view above Palmyra shows off its desert and palm-filled setting.

Pick up folding argileh (water-pipes) and hand-blended perfume oils in Damascus souqs, mother-of-pearl inlaid tawwla (backgammon set) and olive oil soaps in Aleppo and hand-embroidered brocade in any handicraft shop. Bring back mouthwatering pastries and spices from fragrant spice stalls. Try a keffiyeh (headscarf) to protect from the heat of Palmyra.

Kick off dinner with mezze snacks such as kibbe nayye (raw diced lamb with bulgar wheat) and smoky babaganoush (roast aubergine dip). Garlicky foul (broad bean stew) and falafel in pitta make a good lunch. Dine on makloubit betinjan (eggplant casserole) and samaka harra (spicy fish) then round your meal off with nutty baklawa and strong gahwi (coffee).

In Damascus, check out the funky music clubs around Bab Touma, the Christian quarter, or dine up Mount Kassioun for the best night-time view of the city.